Monday, December 04, 2006

French Frustration

Had some wine with a friend from France, Javier.

Javier doesn’t like that everyone says the French are arrogant. Like Americans living abroad, there is always this feeling that your homeland needs constant defending. But after two bottles of wine, Javier's pleas became impassioned, forceful, tearful and eventually, arrogant.

But arrogant in a cute way.

Feeling bad, I did the only thing Americans know how to do when a foreigner is feeling blue: I offered to get him a job.

Javier will be doing wine-related promotions in no time.

Went to a tasting of Burgundy, hosted by Antonin Rodet. French vintners from the area are a bit frustrated that the 'Sideways' effect – the explosion of Pinot Noir sales because of the movie – has yet to materialise in Le Republic.

Wines from Burgundy are made with Chardonnay for whites and Pinot Noir for reds. But, like many French regions, the struggle has been for a consistent wine at a decent price.

These wines finally do just that. Nine whites and 12 reds were tried. Started with 'regional' wines: grapes source from any vineyard in Burgundy. Then moved to 'village' wines, and finally to 'estate' wines. Follow the 'as the vineyards available decreases, quality increases' thingy? Burgundy baby.

TIP: Don't know which Burgundy is best? Then you fit in the majority category. (It's a big section, with about 99.999999 percent of the earth's population in it.) Pick the one with the most writting on the label. The more 'areas' declared, the better it can get.

Of course, price does a good job telling that tale.

All of the whites came from the 2004 harvest, the reds, some still not in bottle for retail, from the 2005. Remember that. The 2004 Burgundy whites are crisp and clean, metallic, citrus and vanilla. Touch of honey in the grapes infected with mild rot.

The 2005 are uplifting and fresh. Fruit-forward and funky. Tannic but not tart. Memorable. The 'estate' wines can age for at least ten years yet. Both outstanding wines from outstanding vintages.

2004 Burgundy white 9.0
2005 Burgundy red 9.1

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