Last week was wine-filled, and so without further adieu…
The tasting for the Islington Conservative Party was meant to be the best ever, and it was. Sparkling wine tasting. What could go wrong? Well, having less than 20 people showing up… at any rate, it was a blast. Yours truly is working the speaking circuit like a Clinton. Large, in-charge and, usually, full of crap.
Just kidding. The night was tinged by politics of course, but what do we really care about? No, let's talk about something that benefits us. (May have just lost that contract.)
Santa Margarita Prosecco. Sparkling wines that are produced in the Veneto in Italy outside Venice. Brilliant, simple and crisp, a perfect start. Nice, easy bubbles, but a bit pricey, probably would retail for £10, a lot for Prosecco. 8.4
Margues de Monistrol 2004 Cava, sparking wine from Penedes, around Barcelona. Slightly lemony, with a hint of green olive, a bit acidic, but a bargain at £8 retail. 8.4
Most preferred: the supermarket Champagne. Tesco Premier Cru at about £15 a bottle. This is a sparkling wine engineered in a laboratory to best fit the British notion of what Champagne should taste like. Almonds and Italian-style biscuit. A smooth oakiness, with plenty of bubbles. Also, a little too sweet. This makes people, Brits in particular, think they are savouring something more then they really are… it works though, wining the 2005 Wine International award for Best non-vintage Champagne, beating out some French contenders that sell their wines for much, much more. Would score higher if not so predictable. 8.5
During a 'meeting' last night, enjoyed the 2004 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Merlot from Margaret River Australia. My esteemed colleague called it 'spicy.' But spicy is really only an OK descriptor, for this wine is better than that. It's not aromatic spices, cardamom, fenugreek, etc. More like very slight cinnamon, clove. Perfect balance, mouth-feel, earthly expression. Almost took the ouch out of the four-time mark-up at the wine bar. 9.0 points. £24.
La Baume 2005 Merlot South of France, has a tasting note on the front label. Dark Cherry and Spicy (!), Fruit Characters, soft and round. A wonderful idea, if completely untrue. Actually it is vile, tense and terse. No balance and burns the throat. Smells like Teen Spirit. 7.6 points. £5.5
Now the 2004 Palandri Estate Cabernet Merlot West Australia Reserve, £8… now that's much better. Black olive, blackberry, oak and dill. Smooth in alcohol but bright in feeling. Dark color. Inky texture. Great for the price, and you know, for having one glass to many as its hangover after-burps will go well with your morning coffee. 8.7 points.
Also there was this one wine that tasted entirely of cloves. Can't remember which one. A Conservative at the tasting asked why winemakers put banana, apricot, etc. in wines for flavour. It's a good question. See, wine is complex, but, alas, made of 100 percent grapes. The "other" tastes come from its complex chemical structure. The molecules that are released in the 'nose' of the wine match the chemical structure of the molecules that exist in the similarly tasting fruits.
The nose-mouth association happens because of a genetic survival-type response, as one argument goes, since things that smell good are attractive to people and also tend to be high in nutrition. Smell prevents us from eating something that's off, by alerting us before in hits the mouth, where digestion begins. Wine also lets people live longer, when consumed responsibly. Not saying the theory is airtight. At least not for someone like me, who sees wonderful wines, and the people who make them, as rock-hard proof of Intelligent Design.
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
Monday, February 19, 2007
The Grandest Cru
Bordeaux is stuck in its own cycle of status. The methods of matching wine to quality were first developed in 1855 and, sadly, had as little merit then, as now. See, it was never intended to be an officially indicator of quality. But that is sure what it is now.
My friend, the late Rene Renou, wanted to change all this. He was president of the classification body. He wanted a new form of classification and he wanted to see varietals listed on the labels, new world style. Would one pay so much for Chateau Petrus, one of only five 'first growths,' if they knew it was 100 percent Merlot? Renou thoughts so, and many people believed him.
Well, he died before he even came close to fulfilling that dream, and after this week's tastings of Saint Emilion Grand Crus, it is apparent that it will take 1,000 Renous to change Bordeaux. Just wish there was a way people could see how great these wines can be, without all the fancy labels of pretty houses.
It's just happy grape juice, people!
For instance, trying the 2004 Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle, 70 percent Merlot, 25 Cabernet Franc, 25 Cabernet Sauvignon: rich and full, still tight with tannin as it's so young, but with power and a touch of dill, but mainly, and here is the sticking point, strong hints of limestone. "Well, it is on a limestone-clay plateau," explained the pourer, also the owner.
BTW, why do all pourers seem to have bad breath? Makes you think, makes you think…
"So that's why it tastes similar to the Ribera del Duero in Spain," was my reply, "Of course, there isn't the massive fruit expression (of course!) and over-ripeness, but the minerality is there and just as strong."
And the response, well, let's just say this St. Emilion Grand Cru pourer was less than convinced. But that didn't stop me from demanding to try the 1996 he had hidden behind his table.
Phht! 'Grand Cru…' it's a fancy term sure, but there are more than 600 Grand Cru Chateaus in Saint Emilion alone. Think about that, Frenchy.
Sweet guy though.
Vintage rating:
Saint Emilion 2005, strong blackberry from the year's heat. Blockbuster vintage, better aging. 8.8 points
Saint Emilion 2004, expect more floral-type flavors with weaker strengths more wines with cocoa in this year, but less potential for aging. 8.5 points.
A few other standouts were:
Chateau Lamande 2005. A wow wine, will be a blockbuster with flaky sand tastes and a strong expression f truffle and chocolate. 9.0 points, easy.
Chateau La Tour Figeac 1998, a slight essence of sweaty socks, with sandalwood and toasty grains, the finish is a bit rotten but the wine is enjoyable, even with the bizarre tasting note this is… 9.0 points.
Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2005, still a barrel sample, but on the light side for the vintage. It should be more tannic. Slight hint of raisin, with light oak, which will increase as barrel aging further softens the tannin. A strong, full body otherwise, with meaty mushroom. Good potential for 10+ aging. 8.8 points, for now.
But the real winner was Chateau Laniote. Always a good wine. The 1998 was a lovely, classy affair, with ripe cheese, Camembert to be more specific. The 2004 was very strong, but with a lightness on the palate, with pine nuts laced throughout. The 2005 was very high in alcohol, but could still show its lovely ripples of violets and roses… when it relaxes, expect some decent, toasty oak structure. I give the Chateau a 9.1 rating overall, the highest to date, for producing a product as different as it is delicious, year after year.
Can't really explain why this is, but maybe the information on the Chateau, provided at the tasting, will give the answer. Situated on 12 acres of clay and limestone, Chateau Laniote produces 20,000 bottles per year. The blend is 85 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.
That explains it! Each bottle of wine is 105 percent grapes!
It's that extra five percent that gives it the edge.
My friend, the late Rene Renou, wanted to change all this. He was president of the classification body. He wanted a new form of classification and he wanted to see varietals listed on the labels, new world style. Would one pay so much for Chateau Petrus, one of only five 'first growths,' if they knew it was 100 percent Merlot? Renou thoughts so, and many people believed him.
Well, he died before he even came close to fulfilling that dream, and after this week's tastings of Saint Emilion Grand Crus, it is apparent that it will take 1,000 Renous to change Bordeaux. Just wish there was a way people could see how great these wines can be, without all the fancy labels of pretty houses.
It's just happy grape juice, people!
For instance, trying the 2004 Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle, 70 percent Merlot, 25 Cabernet Franc, 25 Cabernet Sauvignon: rich and full, still tight with tannin as it's so young, but with power and a touch of dill, but mainly, and here is the sticking point, strong hints of limestone. "Well, it is on a limestone-clay plateau," explained the pourer, also the owner.
BTW, why do all pourers seem to have bad breath? Makes you think, makes you think…
"So that's why it tastes similar to the Ribera del Duero in Spain," was my reply, "Of course, there isn't the massive fruit expression (of course!) and over-ripeness, but the minerality is there and just as strong."
And the response, well, let's just say this St. Emilion Grand Cru pourer was less than convinced. But that didn't stop me from demanding to try the 1996 he had hidden behind his table.
Phht! 'Grand Cru…' it's a fancy term sure, but there are more than 600 Grand Cru Chateaus in Saint Emilion alone. Think about that, Frenchy.
Sweet guy though.
Vintage rating:
Saint Emilion 2005, strong blackberry from the year's heat. Blockbuster vintage, better aging. 8.8 points
Saint Emilion 2004, expect more floral-type flavors with weaker strengths more wines with cocoa in this year, but less potential for aging. 8.5 points.
A few other standouts were:
Chateau Lamande 2005. A wow wine, will be a blockbuster with flaky sand tastes and a strong expression f truffle and chocolate. 9.0 points, easy.
Chateau La Tour Figeac 1998, a slight essence of sweaty socks, with sandalwood and toasty grains, the finish is a bit rotten but the wine is enjoyable, even with the bizarre tasting note this is… 9.0 points.
Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2005, still a barrel sample, but on the light side for the vintage. It should be more tannic. Slight hint of raisin, with light oak, which will increase as barrel aging further softens the tannin. A strong, full body otherwise, with meaty mushroom. Good potential for 10+ aging. 8.8 points, for now.
But the real winner was Chateau Laniote. Always a good wine. The 1998 was a lovely, classy affair, with ripe cheese, Camembert to be more specific. The 2004 was very strong, but with a lightness on the palate, with pine nuts laced throughout. The 2005 was very high in alcohol, but could still show its lovely ripples of violets and roses… when it relaxes, expect some decent, toasty oak structure. I give the Chateau a 9.1 rating overall, the highest to date, for producing a product as different as it is delicious, year after year.
Can't really explain why this is, but maybe the information on the Chateau, provided at the tasting, will give the answer. Situated on 12 acres of clay and limestone, Chateau Laniote produces 20,000 bottles per year. The blend is 85 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.
That explains it! Each bottle of wine is 105 percent grapes!
It's that extra five percent that gives it the edge.
Monday, February 12, 2007
Laissez les BonTemps…
Threw a Mardi Gras party for the kids this weekend. This could possible be the only Mardi Gras party where nudity was banned for over-10s. Nonetheless, the spread was golden: red beans and rice, chicken taquitos, homemade Rice Krispie treats, and, of course, King Cake. And my own contribution, a muffuletta (even prepared the foccacia bread myself).
It was decent. As decent as the Brit ingredients would allow, couldn't find provolone. Aww, who are we kidding? It was great, especially the red beans and rice, sooo authentic… made me miss the New Orleans that was destroyed long before Katrina.
The New Orleans of the 'pre-Starbucks' era.
Anyway, like any decent party for Mardi Gras, chaos reigned supreme after only about ten minutes. There was some pushing around the punch bowl, some shoving while waiting in line to use the bathroom, some cutting in line for red beans and rice.
The kids were perfectly behaved, though, and seemed to love the mask and flag-making table the most.
By the end of the do, felt a decent bottle of wine was in order, especially when capped with the following:
Ask the neighbour, a Dane, to come over for some food and refreshment. Morten is a nice enough guy, but he has big shoes to fill, as the only other Morten from Denmark yours truly knows happens to be the highest scoring athlete in the National Football League.
He had a good time, last to leave. Said 'thank you' to the wife and headed out. Our conversation went something like this:
"How was everything?"
Morten: "Umm, it was OK…"
"What was wrong?"
Morten: "Well, it's not really my type of food."
This is true, Morten once described the national dish of Denmark to me in one word: "Pizza."
Mentioned that another country may already have pizza as a national dish.
At any rate, the conversation turned my thoughts to the great Montepulciano d'Abruzzos going down the hatch round here. Should have plenty of time to think until police find the body.
Such impressive wines, especially, the 2004 Incanto. Montepulciano is an area in Tuscany that makes Sangiovese-based wines. Montepulciano is also the name of a grape grown in Abruzzo, a region in East-central Italy.
The Incanto, somewhat pricey at £10 is beautiful, with folds of chocolate and wild berries. Nice dry, old oak flavour with hints of vanilla and smoke. Really classic. 8.8 points.
After the Mardi Gras party, however, in the mood for something daring. Found a bottle of Santa Costanza (like the character in Seinfeld) Novello from Banfi. From Tuscany. 1999. The thing that worried me most was not the label (Italian wines had extremely poor marketing techniques before 2000 and some wines still come in those crazy basket-bottles), which looked like some kind of mosaic commissioned for the bathroom of the Medici family.
No, what worried me was the year, 1999, and the word 'Novello,' which sounds like it may mean 'new' in Italian. Figured the wine was probably way too old, but bought it anyway. Turns out it is a blend of Sangiovese and Gamay, the same grape used in Beaujolais Nouveau, that least ageable of wines. The Novello also used Carbonic Maceration, a technique used to speed fermentation and get the wine ready ASAP. This tends to lend a slight effervescence and a heavy grape outlook to the wine.
EUREKA! The Sangiovese saved the wine. Still good. WHEW! Almost lost out on, like, ten bucks there. It still tasted fresh and new, even though it was on the heavier side of almost a decade. Freaky. Aroma was grapey, the wine was grapey. But mineral notes helped make the wine unique. Great when shared with my imaginary wine friends. (Martin was the biggest fan, but what could he know? He doesn’t exist! J )
Really fun, the Novello. And a big surprise. 8.4 points.
One of my neighbours, Camilla, from the old hood came over for the Mardi Gras party. She told me that the wine she received as a Christmas gift from the Gaffney household was served at a dinner party. She brought it over and served it to her friends. She thought it was 'O.K.' But… the dinner party LOVED it… they raved and raved. She couldn't remember what wine it was, think it may have been a Ribera del Duero, but can't be sure.
The kicker here is that no one knew the wine was a gift from a wine writer. When pressed by the guests on who picked out the wine, my neighbour took the credit for herself.
Gotta love that spunk. Camilla, 8.9 points.
It was decent. As decent as the Brit ingredients would allow, couldn't find provolone. Aww, who are we kidding? It was great, especially the red beans and rice, sooo authentic… made me miss the New Orleans that was destroyed long before Katrina.
The New Orleans of the 'pre-Starbucks' era.
Anyway, like any decent party for Mardi Gras, chaos reigned supreme after only about ten minutes. There was some pushing around the punch bowl, some shoving while waiting in line to use the bathroom, some cutting in line for red beans and rice.
The kids were perfectly behaved, though, and seemed to love the mask and flag-making table the most.
By the end of the do, felt a decent bottle of wine was in order, especially when capped with the following:
Ask the neighbour, a Dane, to come over for some food and refreshment. Morten is a nice enough guy, but he has big shoes to fill, as the only other Morten from Denmark yours truly knows happens to be the highest scoring athlete in the National Football League.
He had a good time, last to leave. Said 'thank you' to the wife and headed out. Our conversation went something like this:
"How was everything?"
Morten: "Umm, it was OK…"
"What was wrong?"
Morten: "Well, it's not really my type of food."
This is true, Morten once described the national dish of Denmark to me in one word: "Pizza."
Mentioned that another country may already have pizza as a national dish.
At any rate, the conversation turned my thoughts to the great Montepulciano d'Abruzzos going down the hatch round here. Should have plenty of time to think until police find the body.
Such impressive wines, especially, the 2004 Incanto. Montepulciano is an area in Tuscany that makes Sangiovese-based wines. Montepulciano is also the name of a grape grown in Abruzzo, a region in East-central Italy.
The Incanto, somewhat pricey at £10 is beautiful, with folds of chocolate and wild berries. Nice dry, old oak flavour with hints of vanilla and smoke. Really classic. 8.8 points.
After the Mardi Gras party, however, in the mood for something daring. Found a bottle of Santa Costanza (like the character in Seinfeld) Novello from Banfi. From Tuscany. 1999. The thing that worried me most was not the label (Italian wines had extremely poor marketing techniques before 2000 and some wines still come in those crazy basket-bottles), which looked like some kind of mosaic commissioned for the bathroom of the Medici family.
No, what worried me was the year, 1999, and the word 'Novello,' which sounds like it may mean 'new' in Italian. Figured the wine was probably way too old, but bought it anyway. Turns out it is a blend of Sangiovese and Gamay, the same grape used in Beaujolais Nouveau, that least ageable of wines. The Novello also used Carbonic Maceration, a technique used to speed fermentation and get the wine ready ASAP. This tends to lend a slight effervescence and a heavy grape outlook to the wine.
EUREKA! The Sangiovese saved the wine. Still good. WHEW! Almost lost out on, like, ten bucks there. It still tasted fresh and new, even though it was on the heavier side of almost a decade. Freaky. Aroma was grapey, the wine was grapey. But mineral notes helped make the wine unique. Great when shared with my imaginary wine friends. (Martin was the biggest fan, but what could he know? He doesn’t exist! J )
Really fun, the Novello. And a big surprise. 8.4 points.
One of my neighbours, Camilla, from the old hood came over for the Mardi Gras party. She told me that the wine she received as a Christmas gift from the Gaffney household was served at a dinner party. She brought it over and served it to her friends. She thought it was 'O.K.' But… the dinner party LOVED it… they raved and raved. She couldn't remember what wine it was, think it may have been a Ribera del Duero, but can't be sure.
The kicker here is that no one knew the wine was a gift from a wine writer. When pressed by the guests on who picked out the wine, my neighbour took the credit for herself.
Gotta love that spunk. Camilla, 8.9 points.
Tuesday, February 06, 2007
A New Low
Came across an interesting one. Called Monastrell IX. No brand. Just a Spanish grape, Monastrell (Mourvèdre in France, Mataro in New World) with one selling point: it's 15 percent alcohol by volume. What tragedy is this?
Wine is a socio-economic beverage. The one alcoholic drink linked to the most miracles, thank you very much. To sell based solely on the fuzzy factor, seems just plain wrong. And it's not cheap, 5 pounds at the Co-Op. Certainly it would be awful, but some fool has to blog it, doesn't he?
Monastrell is a popular grape in Spain, with limited success in the rest of the world, outside of France. The thick skin and sludgy juice make it too grapey for most winemakers. And too provincial and tannic. The IX had this, plus a heavy helping of dark, dank, thick dirt. Half of Spain seemed to gloop out that bottle.
Telling you, that wine was so bad, and it took forever to finish. Every last drop.
Also had two great Montepulciano d'Abruzzos. Thinking about doing a few reviews on these wines. Who likes Italian?
Wine is a socio-economic beverage. The one alcoholic drink linked to the most miracles, thank you very much. To sell based solely on the fuzzy factor, seems just plain wrong. And it's not cheap, 5 pounds at the Co-Op. Certainly it would be awful, but some fool has to blog it, doesn't he?
Monastrell is a popular grape in Spain, with limited success in the rest of the world, outside of France. The thick skin and sludgy juice make it too grapey for most winemakers. And too provincial and tannic. The IX had this, plus a heavy helping of dark, dank, thick dirt. Half of Spain seemed to gloop out that bottle.
Telling you, that wine was so bad, and it took forever to finish. Every last drop.
Also had two great Montepulciano d'Abruzzos. Thinking about doing a few reviews on these wines. Who likes Italian?
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